Among Yaks, Monasteries, and Memories
A journey into the Tibetan grasslands of Gannan brings Hugh Battye into the rhythms of nomadic family life, local religious practice, and an unexpected memory of an earlier Christian presence in the region.
Can China ever be told through a single story? Over fifteen years in mainland China, Hugh Battye encountered worlds that rarely fit neatly into one narrative—from northern cities to Bonan villages in Gansu and the Tibetan grasslands. Drawing on his book *A Tale of Two Chinas*, this three-part series brings together personal experience and ethnographic observation, inviting readers to look beyond familiar assumptions and discover the cultural and religious diversity of China.
A journey into the Tibetan grasslands of Gannan brings Hugh Battye into the rhythms of nomadic family life, local religious practice, and an unexpected memory of an earlier Christian presence in the region.
Fieldwork among the Bonan in Gansu begins with stamps, permissions, and a search for somewhere to stay, revealing along the way how differently a researcher and his hosts can understand hospitality, access, and an “authentic” experience.
Drawing on fifteen years in mainland China, Hugh Battye reflects on the very different worlds he encountered—and on what can disappear when we speak of “China” as though it were a single cultural experience.